Wednesday, November 12, 2008

Kindai Tuna

(new Kindai tuna dish at Lacroix being plated)
Blue Fin tuna is in danger. Unsustainable fishing practices have rendered it nearly extinct- yet the overfishing continues- it's just too damn good. Recently, light has appeared at the end of the tunnel.Researchers at Kinki University in Keten, Setouchi-cho, Oshima-gun, Kagoshima Prefecture in Japan have begun to farm raise blue fin tuna- literally farm raise them. The tuna isn't caught from the wild, the eggs are born in the laboratory. Moreover, the tuna are raised without drugs, on organic feed, and are given plenty of room to move around, unlike the majority of farmed fish. Only a few, however, are shipped to the U.S. each week.
The chefs at Lacroix were ecstatic, as they were able to get their hands on some a few weeks ago. The Chef de Cuisine approached me shaking, "I'm horny right now holding this fish." And a beautiful piece of fish it was. With ultimate reverence he explained to me how he got lucky, and was able to get the fish only cause "he knows somebody." "The Kobe Beef we get is some of the best you can buy, and it costs around $40 a pound. This Kindai costs about 64."
He held out a piece for me. Shivers ran down my spine. Lacroix is a very upscale restaurant. The chefs have seen everything. I don't think I've ever seen them so excited about a product. I took the piece and placed it on my tongue. At once I tasted oily, velvety, slightly sweet. A wonderful fishiness was apparent. The fish melted in my mouth, before I was ready to let it go. I heard another chef make a joke about using it for tartare. I laughed out loud. Though the title does the tuna little justice, I hereby pronounce Kindai Tuna, tuna on roids. x10 x10 x10 x10.

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